Mode de vie

Navigating New Orleans

A journey through the Creole, Cajun and contemporary flavors of Louisiana’s most vibrant city.

There are countless reasons why visitors are captivated by New Orleans’ warm Southern hospitality, lively music scene and distinctive Creole and Cajun influences. The city—often nicknamed the “Paris of the South”—has a charm that has been centuries in the making. While several generations of New Orleanians seek to preserve the past, a new era of chefs, musicians, artists and curators look to build on the city’s legendary grandeur. Here’s a rundown of New Orleans worth visiting and revisiting.

Explore

Nobody should leave the city without walking down Magazine Street (Octavia Art Gallery) or Royal Street to shop for local art (look out for Studio Be, Harouni Gallery, Graphite Gallery and Martin Lawrence Gallery). While you’re on the latter street, peek into upscale decor musts such as the historic family-owned Bevolo Gas & Electric Lights (for handcrafted lanterns) or M.S. Rau for antiques (acquisitions come from such sources as the Vatican). A trip to the French Quarter to experience jazz can be planned seven nights a week. For living legends, book your tickets at the newly renovated Preservation Hall. For an intimate listening experience, snag a private table at Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro or the Bayou Bar.

See

Be sure to charge your phone before a day trip to the Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden at the New Orleans Museum of Art, as no one leaves the site without over-snapping photos of the extensive pathway of brilliant works. From Frank Stella’s intricate Alu Truss Star to Katharina Fritsch’s spooky yet spectacular giant skull, the nearly 11-acre area is simply an appetizer to the almost 40,000-piece permanent collection housed in the property’s adjacent neoclassical building. For more historic architecture, take a private walking tour of the Garden District with Nola Tours: The company guides small groups of visitors around the neighborhood’s tree-lined 19th-century estates, including a view of the Lafayette Cemetery No. 1—the city’s first non-denominational resting grounds.

New Orleans Center Square
New Orleans Center Square

Stay

Easy access to the stunning Chandelier Bar at the Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans would be reason enough for libation lovers or zero-proof connoisseurs alike to book a weekend in one of the riverside suites. The drink menu includes intriguing sips such as the World’s Fair Fizz (mixing Champagne, wildflower honey, egg whites and butterfly pea flower tea) and the 1944 Mai Tai (crafted with 15-year rum and toasted orgeat). The property also houses an exquisite rooftop pool that overlooks the majestic Mississippi River, a delicious brunch spot called Miss River (order the duck and andouille gumbo), and a top-notch concierge service (which sets up excursions such as private tours of local oyster farms). The hotel is also conveniently located steps away from the city’s choice shopping mecca, Canal Place.

Four Seasons New Orleans.
Four Seasons New Orleans.

Indulge

Book a reservation at Emeril’s for a true cultural dining experience of inventive dishes inspired by traditional Creole cuisine. The multigenerational talent is unmistakable at this venue helmed by iconic three-time James Beard Foundation award-winner Emeril Lagasse and his son E.J. Lagasse, who has earned his own accolades like the esteemed New Talent of the Year Award 2024 from La Liste. Food lovers will rejoice in E.J.’s contemporary adaptations of his dad’s plates with continued inspiration from the bounty of Louisiana produce. In E.J.’s words, “expect a taste of local, traditional, cross-cultural, classic and current cuisines,” as recipes are painstakingly devised through archival research of the city and E.J. and Emeril’s history of family dinners. Diners can witness their meal being prepared by the duo as each table offers a view of the completely windowed kitchen (and a private oven and food prep tour will enlighten you about the profound potency of Louisiana kumquat and quince). 

Father-son team at Emeril’s iconic restaurant.
Father-son team at Emeril’s iconic restaurant.

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